A flowering hydrangea bush will decorate any personal plot. Its magnificent inflorescences of spherical or conical shape are unusually beautiful. The varietal variety of this plant crop is the hydrangea Tardiva, which has unusual buds and gives off a pleasant aroma.
Grade description
Hydrangea Tardiva (Hydrangea paniculata Tardiva) is a deciduous bush that lends itself well to shaping. This abundantly flowering plant will become a real decoration of any garden. It has its own characteristics and advantages and can be successfully grown in the middle zone of the Russian Federation. The variety is characterized by late flowering.
Appearance
Hydrangea Tardiva belongs to panicled species. Japan is considered her homeland. Due to their high frost resistance, these attractive shrubs can be grown in different climatic conditions. This bush can be shaped like a standard tree.
The bush of the described hydrangea reaches a height of up to 2.5–3 m. It has a dense, rounded crown and medium growth rates. The shrub has brown-red shoots and dark green egg-shaped leaves. The leaf plates are a little rough, with serrated edges. Unusual white inflorescences have a conical shape 30–40 cm long and up to 20 cm in diameter. They have a loose structure. Over time, the flowers become faded pink. Shades of petals largely depend on the acidity of the soil.Did you know? Panicled hydrangea received the name Tardiva due to late flowering. In English, the word "tardy" means "belated."
Characteristics
Hydrangea Tardiva has the following characteristics:
- high winter hardiness (zone 4);
- good resistance to diseases of the root system;
- ability to quickly restore vegetative parts;
- can be grown in the same place for 30–40 years;
- long flowering period (August - September).
During flowering, the buds exude a honey aroma that attracts bees for pollination. This decorative type of shrub is a honey plant.
Landscape design application
Panicled hydrangea of the Tardiva variety can be planted as a tapeworm, but it looks best in group plantings.
Did you know? In the ancient Chinese literature monument “Song Book” (Shi-ching), “Joy of the park” is mentioned. This work contains 305 poetic samples written in the 11th – 6th centuries. BC e.
It can be used in such landscape design options:
- As flowering hedges and alleys, zoning of the territory.
- Like a solitary plant on the background of a neat lawn.
- The lush bush of hydrangea can cover the outbuildings and mask the flaws of the landscape. A number of bushes can be planted along an unsightly looking concrete fence or blank wall.
- It is good to plant it at the entrance or near architectural garden buildings (arbors, pavilions).
- Like a tall plant in mixborders.
- In the middle of a flower bed.
- In compositions with other decorative bushes. This hydrangea variety opens its buds when most of the other flowering shrubs have already bloomed. He will continue the “baton” after lilac, spirea, mock-up.
- In groups with conifers. Evergreens also prefer acidic soil and acidify it themselves. Against the backdrop of needle-like greens, the seasonal lush flowering of hydrangea looks very elegant.
- In compositions with other bushes and trees of different shapes and sizes, presenting similar requirements to the soil and place.
- In landings in a natural, landscape style. This plant shows itself perfectly in Chinese and Japanese gardens.
Landing
For hydrangea, you need to pick and prepare a place ahead of time, forming a landing pit and making a soil mixture. The landing period is selected based on local climatic conditions. The landing itself will take a little time. Only during planting, certain rules must be observed.
Important! When buying, it is best to choose 4-5 year old seedlings with a closed root system, without signs of disease or pest damage.
Departure Dates
In the northern regions and in territories with frosty winters, planting should be carried out in the spring, when the earth warms up and the threat of return frosts passes. In the southern regions, in Tauris (Crimea) and in the conditions of a warm long autumn, the plant can be planted in September. When planting in autumn, it should be noted that the seedling should have enough time to take root well before frost. A plant in a container can be planted throughout the growing season.
Site selection and preparation
For panicle hydrangea, you should choose a place well-lit by the sun, without direct rays and strong winds. There should be no stagnation of water. The plant prefers nutritious soils with a slightly acidic or acidic reaction, but can also tolerate neutral. It is best to choose acidic loam.
It is recommended to dig a hole in advance, measuring 60 × 40 cm (diameter and depth). The distance between the stand-alone bushes of the Tardiva variety should be 2.5 m, and to get a hedge, plants are planted every meter.Sand and organic matter are added to the dense soil, and at the bottom a layer is made of gravel, gravel or broken brick, necessary for drainage. When digging, the upper fertile layer is discarded into a separate pile and mixed with humus. To acidify the soil, you can add brown peat to the planting hole, needles or pour the soil with a weak solution of citric acid.
Landing instruction
Panicled hydrangea seedlings before planting are shortened too long roots and cut branches, leaving 3-4 buds.
Then perform the following steps:
- A hill of prepared soil mixture is poured at the bottom of the pit.
- Place a seedling in the center of the pit and spread its roots.
- Gently fill the bush, tamping the soil so that its root neck is not too covered with soil. A slight deepening of 2-3 cm is allowed, which settles over time.
- Make plentiful watering.
Outdoor Care
Panicled hydrangea is the most frost-resistant and rather unpretentious plant of its kind. However, poor care can adversely affect flowering and overall well-being of the plant. According to reviews by amateur gardeners, there is no problem with an abundance of watering and top dressing with a variety of hydrangea Tardiva. During flowering and preparation for winter, he needs to pay more attention than usual.
Watering mode
Panicled hydrangea should be regularly moistened. This species can tolerate drought relatively persistently, but lack of moisture, especially during budding and flowering, will adversely affect inflorescences. Therefore, for the season, it is necessary to produce several plentiful irrigations along with fertilizer application. If it rains, then you can skip them, and in the heat you should irrigate more often. At the same time, for every 1 m², 30 liters of liquid are poured.
After watering, it is recommended to loosen the soil and remove weeds. During hot summers, it is better to mulch the soil near the bush. This will help maintain moisture and interfere with the growth of weeds.
Top dressing
Hydrangeas for the most magnificent flowering and normal development need nutrition. She loves organics and mineral fertilizers for heather crops, rhododendrons and azaleas, acidifying the soil. But it is better not to bring ash under it, as this deoxidizes the soil. There are special mixtures specifically for hydrangeas.
Did you know? The first to determine the plant's need for nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium was the German scientist Justut von Liebig (1803–1873). In his writings, he expressed the idea that inorganic substances can be used to feed crops grown by humans in the same way as organics.
It is necessary to make top dressing in the following terms:
- The beginning of spring. Make nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
- June. At the beginning of budding, it is good to feed the plant with organic matter.
- During flowering. Two top dressings are made with the predominant part of phosphorus and potassium.
- In the fall. They make only phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
Features of care during the flowering period
If a too young plant is "about to" bloom, for example, planted in the first year with a shank, then the buds should be removed. This is necessary for the young bush for normal rooting. But usually in the garden already grown seedlings bloom. During this period, hydrangea should be watered more often.
During the opening of the buds, supporting top dressing is carried out, contributing to a longer flowering. In such substances, the level of nitrogen is reduced, the emphasis is on potassium and phosphorus. They feed no more than twice a month.
Typically, the branches of this species can withstand the load from lush inflorescences, but windy weather or heavy rains can incline them to the ground. Therefore, the bush may need to install a frame or garter.
Features of care during dormancy and preparation for winter
In the fall, faded inflorescences, dry, thickening branches are removed during sanitary and molding pruning. Thin shoots shorten to the 4th kidney. Autumn top dressing is produced only with potassium and phosphorus. Usually, superphosphate and potassium sulfate are used.
In harsh winters, the bushes are insulated. To do this, a thick layer of mulch from leaves, sawdust or humus is poured around the plants around the plant, and the bush itself is wrapped in burlap. Top make a frame, filled with dry leaves, and cover with a film. In most cases, an adult plant in the middle zone of the Russian Federation has a good enough mulching of the roots, and shelters are built only for young specimens. Before wintering, preventive spraying is done.1- tilted shoots, 2 -cocking, 3- spruce branches, 4- lutrasil, 5- stoneDisease and Pest Prevention
Hydrangea can be affected by the following diseases:
- Fungal. These are various rot, powdery mildew and gray spotting, usually developing against a background of high humidity. Copper-based drugs are used against such ailments.
- Viral. Most often, a ring spot is found on the plant. Unfortunately, drugs against these diseases do not exist.
The best prevention of diseases and pests is proper care for hydrangea. Moderate hydration, top dressing and the required tillage will allow the plant to be resistant to various misfortunes.
Important! If hydrangea shows signs of circular spotting, then the plant will have to be disposed of so that it does not infect neighboring crops. This disease gives itself out as necrotic spots on foliage.
The list of preventive measures includes the following:
- Preplant planting of seedlings and soil at the site of planting with copper sulfate (1%).
- In autumn (for winter) and early spring, do treatments with Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes, for example, “HOM”. In rainy climates, Phytosporin treatment does not hinder the prevention of fungal diseases.
- Removing weeds and plant debris in which pests can live and breed.
- Prophylactic use of insecticides. From most pests, the treatment with Iskra or Decis will help. Against ticks and some other insects, Fitoverm will help.
- Bushes should be periodically inspected for the presence of diseases and pests, and if they are detected, appropriate measures should be taken.
Breeding
It is not difficult to propagate an existing hydrangea bush if desired. There are different ways of propagating this flowering shrub, but the most popular is cuttings. In this way, from a single bush, you can subsequently grow a whole hedge or plant a plant in different places of the garden. The choice of method depends on the preferences of the gardener and the time of the season.
Important! If time is lost and hydrangea shoots are numb in the summer, then cuttings not taken on time will be longer and harder to root.
Cuttings
Cuttings are usually harvested in the summer. In May-June, you can cut the green tops of shoots with 2-3 pairs of leaves. In the middle of July, shoots are taken for cuttings, from which the lower part began to stiffen. Slices are done diagonally. The best material is rooted, cut off during the emergence of buds of inflorescences.
It is required to monitor soil moisture and protect plants from direct sunlight. Well-rooted specimens are planted in the ground in the fall and insulated for the winter in regions with frosty winters.
The last pair of leaves is removed from the cut shoots, and then they are placed in the Epina solution (1 ml / 2 L of water) to stimulate root formation for 12 hours. Then, for the same purpose, it is recommended to sprinkle the lower parts of the cuttings with Kornevin. After they are planted in a nutrient permeable substrate. It is made by mixing soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 2: 1.
Planting is watered and covered on top with a film or a glass jar to create a wet microclimate. In summer weather, cuttings take root in about 3-4 weeks, and the shelter can be removed.
Growing from layering
In early spring, until the buds opened, a few centimeters deep grooves were dug near the bush. Selected lower branches are dug in them so that the tops remain at the top. The shoots are pinned to the kidney.
Did you know? Dried hydrangea inflorescences look great in winter bouquets and are used as dried flowers. It is easiest to dry them by hanging them on a rope with tassels down.
The top is tied to a small peg so that it has a vertical position. The place where new shoots will form is watered, and when they appear and grow up, they spud. In the fall they are separated from the mother bush and planted.
Bush division
This is the easiest way to reproduce hydrangea, usually used during its transplant in spring or autumn. With its help, several new bushes are immediately obtained. For them, pre-prepared landing pits. The dug bush is divided into how many parts, on each of which there must be a growth point. Then, the received new plants are planted in prepared pits.
A variety of panicled hydrangea Tardiva blooms in the late stages of white large inflorescences. This is a large bush that tolerates frosts, cutting, easily propagates, but is picky about soils. It is suitable for light acidic soils with plenty of nutrients and moderate humidity.